Returning Home to a Different Country

Rob Watson 002 (Medium)

This reflective blog contrasts Japan’s well-funded public services, clean civic spaces and cohesive cultural norms with the UK’s fragmented infrastructure, emotional volatility and declining public realm. Drawing on metamodern perspectives, it examines how engineering, funding and shared cultural narratives shape everyday life. The piece argues for renewed civic purpose, mythogenetic clarity and a commitment to rebuilding functional, dignified public systems capable of supporting a plural yet coherent society.

Coming back to the UK after two weeks in Japan, it did not feel as if I’d simply flown between time zones. It felt as if I’d dropped from one civilisational experiment into another – from a culture that still funds and engineers its basic systems to work, into one that seems to have given up on the tedious business of maintenance and instead chases peripheral revenue and symbolic gestures.

The shock wasn’t abstract or theoretical. It was visceral: grubby concourses, overflowing bins, broken ticket machines, people shouting into phones, and a civic realm that feels permanently on the edge of a minor emotional incident. The contrast with the composed, quietly engineered order of Japan is now etched into my memory, and it’s forcing me to ask awkward questions about what we in the UK think “public service” and “culture” are for.

Engineering as Care, Not Just Efficiency

One of the most striking features of everyday life in Japan is how thoroughly the basic functions of a system are funded, designed and maintained. Railway and subway networks are an obvious example. Trains are frequent, logically sequenced, and clearly signed, not because someone has discovered a new app, but because decades of tried and tested engineering have been respected and iterated.

Crucially, the funding and attention goes into the core function of the service:

  • Trains that arrive and depart when they are meant to.
  • Stations that are clean, well lit, and easy to navigate.
  • Staff who are trained to solve problems, not merely to apologise for them.

You experience the same principle in convenience stores, cafés, and municipal spaces. Systems are not treated as speculative platforms for “innovation” in some abstract sense; they’re treated as infrastructures that must work first, and only then can be refined.

Behind this sits a sense of cultural ownership. The people who work in these roles do not appear to be embarrassed by the fact that they are serving. There is dignity and clarity in the function: this is my job, this is our system, this is how it should be done.

The Civic Realm as a Shared Responsibility

This engineering mindset bleeds into the civic realm. Every railway and subway station I used had toilets that were:

  • Free to use
  • Clean and regularly maintained
  • Integrated as a normal part of the public space

You don’t queue to pay to urinate. You don’t navigate a maze of advertising and pseudo-luxury “restroom experiences.” You just go to the toilet, and then you carry on with your day. The infrastructure respects the fact that you are a human being with basic bodily needs.

Public spaces, too, are kept clean not by an army of invisible workers frantically tidying up after everyone, but by a social expectation that you don’t trash the environment in the first place. People take personal responsibility for their litter. Bins are non-existent. You have to take your own rubbish with you. The public realm feels cared for because it is cared for – structurally, socially, and symbolically.

Even in busy cafés and food courts, staff move with a kind of calm efficiency. Pre-order portals, ticket systems and trays are used not as gimmicks but as tools to make the interaction smoother for everyone. The underlying question seems to be: “How can we better serve you and keep this space functioning well?”

The UK: Peripheral Extraction and Managed Decline

Returning to the UK, the contrast is painful. We’ve normalised a model in which core funding for public and commercial services is treated as regressive, old-fashioned, or “unsustainable,” and so the system hunts for revenue at the edges instead.

Instead of investing in the core function, we bolt on endless chargeable extras:

  • Car parking fees that feel less like traffic management and more like a stealth tax on participation.
  • Trolley hire charges at airports and supermarkets, as if moving your belongings is a luxury service.
  • Pay-to-use toilets, or toilets so neglected that they become semi-functional deterrents rather than amenities.

The message is clear: the system exists to extract value from you, not to serve you. We’ve internalised the privatised, individualistic doctrine so deeply that we almost forget there could be another way.

Customer service often feels like an adversarial sport. The implicit stance is not “How can we help you?” but “How can we get you off the phone/in and out of the store/through the system with minimal cost to us?” The cynical joke that “the customer is always wrong” doesn’t feel like satire any more; it feels like policy.

And overlaying all of this is a civic realm that looks and feels neglected: graffiti that is never cleaned, bins that are never emptied often enough, small acts of vandalism that become semi-permanent features. It’s not that things are falling apart in one dramatic collapse; it’s that they are being allowed to fray, year on year, while we are told that everything is fine because the app has been updated.

Emotional Weather and Ambient Social Contracts

These material differences sit alongside a difference in what I’d call the emotional weather of public space. In Japan, even in very crowded environments, there is a notable absence of emotional leakage. People queue, move, and negotiate space with a low-intensity, habitual self-control. You can feel the ambient social contract: don’t make things harder for others; don’t demand that your impulses dominate the shared space.

In the UK, by contrast, public spaces feel emotionally volatile. Raised voices on trains, performative phone calls, flashes of irritation in queues, an almost theatrical display of individual moods and grievances. We have empowered the right to expression, but we’ve quietly abandoned the duty to contain ourselves for the sake of others.

This isn’t about personal virtue in any simplistic sense. It’s about the social scripts we write and rehearse together. What counts as normal? What counts as acceptable? Japan has, for better and worse, maintained a strong script around social harmony and self-control. In the UK, the script has become fragmented, improvised, and often exhausted.

Unifying Narratives and Mythogenetic Drift

Underneath these differences in infrastructure and behaviour sits something more abstract, but perhaps more important: mythogenetics – the stories a culture tells about itself, and the way those stories shape what feels possible, desirable, and legitimate.

Japan, for all its contradictions and tensions, still has a relatively unified cultural narrative. There are shared reference points: language, symbols, rituals, historical memory. The myth of “Japaneseness” is powerful, and it is continually renewed through education, media, festivals, and architecture. This myth is not static or unproblematic, but it functions: it binds, it orients, it gives a sense of continuity.

In the UK, we’ve spent several decades dismantling our shared myths without articulating new ones that can hold a complex, plural society together. We’ve been told repeatedly that “diversity is our strength,” while leaving the question of how that strength is realised largely unanswered in everyday life.

In cities like Leicester, where I live, the rhetoric of diversity often sits uneasily alongside a fragmented civic reality:

  • Multiple languages with limited shared spaces of translation.
  • Parallel social worlds that seldom intersect meaningfully.
  • A sense that the common ground is shrinking, not expanding.

The result is not a rich symphony of difference, but a series of adjacent monologues, each turned up louder to be heard over the others. The race to affirm every identity, every niche, every difference can, paradoxically, erode the minimal shared frameworks that make solidarity and mutual obligation possible.

Questioning the slogan “diversity is our strength” is not a call to retreat into a nostalgic, monocultural fantasy. It is a recognition that diversity on its own is not a strength. Diversity needs infrastructures of meaning, institutions of translation, and shared myths that are resilient enough to hold disagreement and difference without disintegrating.

The BBC and the Loss of Core Purpose

The BBC is a revealing case study in this mythogenetic confusion. Historically, it saw itself as a national storyteller: an institution that, however imperfectly, tried to offer a relatively unified cultural model and shared horizon for public life.

In recent decades, the BBC has struggled to reconcile that role with multiple, often contradictory pressures: market competition, identity politics, audience segmentation, and the relentless demand to appear “relevant” to everyone all the time.

In the process, it seems to have lost sight of its core purpose: to articulate and renew a sense of common culture, not as a rigid monoculture, but as a shared space within which disagreements and differences can be worked through.

The BBC is now criticised from every angle – too woke, not woke enough, too establishment, too radical – but beneath the noise lies a deeper failure of orientation. If you don’t know what your mythogenetic role is, you drift. You chase trends, metrics, and demographics, but the spine of the story weakens.

Mythogenetic Compatibility and the End of Bullshitting

What my trip to Japan has crystallised is the sense that we can’t keep bullshitting our way into the future – pretending that a few smart-city apps, some optimistic slogans, and a rotating cast of branding exercises will somehow fix the underlying drift.

We need to talk seriously about mythogenetic compatibility and priorities:

  • What stories are we asking people to live inside, and are those stories compatible with the actual infrastructures we fund and maintain?
  • Can we reconcile a genuinely plural, diverse society with a renewed sense of shared obligations, common language(s), and core civic norms?
  • Are our institutions – from local councils to broadcasters – willing to name a centre of gravity, or are they condemned to permanent fragmentation?

Japan is not a utopia. It has its own exclusions, its own blind spots, its own internal strains. But there is a visible alignment between its myths (social harmony, civic responsibility, care for detail) and its infrastructures (integrated transport, clean public spaces, attentive service). The stories and the systems, broadly speaking, point in the same direction.

In the UK, by contrast, the gap between story and system is widening. We preach inclusion while pricing people out of basic participation. We praise diversity while allowing the shared civic ground to erode. We talk about world-class services while normalising broken lifts, filthy stations, and extractive fee structures.

Towards a Metamodern Civic Culture

A metamodern response to this situation does not simply romanticise Japan or despair about the UK. It refuses both the ironic shrug (“that’s just how things are”) and the naïve utopianism (“a new app will fix it”). Instead, it sits in the tension and asks: what can we learn, and what can we rebuild?

From Japan, we might borrow:

  • The seriousness with which core services are funded and engineered.
  • The idea that serving others can be a dignified, culturally owned role.
  • The expectation that public space should be clean, functional and emotionally calm.

From our own context, we might reclaim:

  • The capacity for self-critique without collapsing into self-hatred.
  • The possibility of building new, shared myths that can hold plurality without denying it.
  • The insistence that institutions like the BBC, local councils, and public transport authorities rediscover their core purposes, rather than just their brand strategies.

The point is not to become “more like Japan” in any literal sense. The point is to recognise that culture, funding, engineering, and myth are entangled. You can’t run down your infrastructures indefinitely and then be surprised when your civic imagination follows.

My trip to Japan has made that entanglement uncomfortably visible. Once you’ve experienced what it feels like when the basics work, when the civic realm is cared for, and when the ambient social contract encourages calm rather than chaos, it becomes harder to accept the low-grade managed decline of everyday life at home.

At some point, we have to stop bullshitting. We have to decide what kind of story we want to live in – and then fund, engineer, and inhabit a civic realm that makes that story plausible again.

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